Looking for a Rijtstaffel in Sanur Bali

Miguel Covarrubias describes a scene in 1930’s Bali, where Dutch expats enjoy a Rijtstaffel (rice table). Unlike traditional Indonesia food, where a couple of dishes are served, the Rijtstaffel has multiple small dishes and pyramid of steaming rice. Covarrubias says that in the hot afternoons the wealthy Dutch would enjoy a Rijtstaffel served by white uniformed staff, taking their time, enjoying all the different dishes and drinking way too much cold beer.

I thought that sounded wonderful! Back in 1986 I ate a mini version of a Rijtstaffel in an Amsterdam restaurant, home to many Indonesians. My friend Mike just got back from Ambon and I suggested to him we look for a Rijtstaffel where he lives in Sanur. I sms’d a friend of mine, Gerry Williams from BaliEats to ask his opinion. He told me the best Rijtstaffel was Warung Enak in Ubud (15 small courses for 150,000rp). I know some hotels do Rijtstaffel, but may need some advanced warning.

Whatever, I’m looking forward to trying to locate one and acting like a Dutch expat.