Saparua: Ambon’s Little Cousin: part II

Here is part II of Mike Hillis’s account from Saparua.

Saparua Island is located in the Lease Group (pronounced Laysay) about 15 miles east of Ambon, Maluku Province. There are three islands in the Lease group; Haruku, Saparua, and Nusa Laut. The islands here are still quite rural with most of the local inhabitants working as fishermen and farmers. ‘Adat’ traditions are very strong here as a number of unusual cultural traditions are still carried out here on a seasonal basis. For example, a form of indigenous natural resource protection called sasi has been practiced here for centuries.

Sasi law comes in two forms; ocean sasi and forest sasi and at a local level is extremely effective at prohibiting the catching of certain fish or the harvesting of certain forest products for a designated period of time, which is usually one full season. Negative social sanctions are strictly enforced if one breaks sasi law. In the village of Sosoi on the southeast coast of Saparua, there is a sasi prohibition in place for the harvesting of coconuts, which expires on March 20 of this year. In this same village there is also a current sasi ban on harvesting lobster until October of this year.

Other resources that are also protected under sasi law are cloves, nutmeg, and kenari (tropical almonds) and also trepang, which is better known as sea cucumber. All of these foodstuffs have been highly desired trade items over the centuries and it is not surprising that such a system has been created to fulfill the annual requirements of keeping stocks sufficient for when the traders come calling each year. This ingenious method of maintaining healthy food stocks in both land and sea has kept the ecological balance in check for as long as time and is a predecessor to any organized religion arriving in the area. Another ancient tradition that is still carried on in Saparua is the pela ceremony. Pela, a vow of brotherhood, is an alliance between villages that transcends religious affiliation. Such vows required the villages to help each other in times of need, and also to cooperate in building houses of worship. The long running Suharto government did little to encourage this form of indigenous village alliance, however Pela continues on in the Lease group.

I was told by elders in Sosoi village that there is a planned Pela ceremony later this year between Tuhaha, a Christian village in Saparua and Rohomoni, a Muslim village on Haruku island just to the west. The ritual involves ceremonially pricking each other fingers and having a drop of blood fall into coconuts, which is drunk by each respective headman. Blood brothers to the end; drums, war canoes, and ancient song and dance soon follow! Needless to say, Pela alliances existed before trial lawyers ever saw the light of day!

Travel and Accomodation details:

There are daily flights to Ambon from Bali and Jakarta. Ambon is the gateway point into Maluku province.
There are daily ferries from Tulehu in Ambon to Haria on the west coast of Saparua. It’s a 2 hour pleasant trip on a public ferry twice a day.
Maluku Divers can handle all your diving and adventure travel needs while in Ambon or Saparua. (unexploredadventures@yahoo.com)
Accomodation at Laino Beach guesthouse is simple and can be arranged by using Maluku Divers as your local agent.

Mike Hillis is a writer that specializes in travel to Maluku with a special emphasis on the ancient spice trade and its effects on world history.