Riding big waves in Bali

Surfing a big wave is a thrill most surfers dream of. A friend of mine who is in the surf industry was telling me about surfing big waves. In the grand scheme of things Bali doesn’t get monster waves, but another friend from Australia told me his best ever day of surfing was a huge day at Nusa Dua a couple of years ago. My friend told that to surf a big wave you need a big heavy board. Big wave surfers use a wooden board and drill holes down the middle to put weighs in. The weight makes it stable, but takes a bigger person to ride, hence most Balinese surfers prefer sub-6ft waves.

Every year during the Kuta Karnival there is a surfboard display featuring some of the older boards in Bali. Many of them, now weathered and brown, due to the UV getting to the foam, have pin-tails, which are tails that go to a point. Pin-tails slow the board down, which is what you want on a big wave. My surfing level is so low I need a board long enough to land airliner on.

The best surf in Bali tends to be in July-August, with the Bukit producing nice waves. But don’t take my word for it, especially if you are contemplating riding big waves. Ask a knowledgeable expat surfer where to go and what to expect.