Here's the very latest on the surf in Bali. The swell is big right now and waves are maybe 6ft on Kuta Beach. Yesterday was big and tomorrow will be good too. When I'm talking about surfing I am doing it through other people, I repeat what hear. I don't have an inside track to the National Weather Bureau or study weather patterns from NASA. No, I ask an Aussie mate how the surf is and if he says 'bloody good', then the 'swell' is good. To be honest I don't know much about the surf terminology. When I look out from the beach I see water, lots of it, and sometimes there are waves. This can mean there is 'swell'.
This afternoon at sunset I went down to Kuta Beach to watch my friend Palu try to snag a couple of waves from the Bali boys. Being 6'4" means he's too slow and can't get up in time. The little Bali guys have made 6 turns by the time the big boy and go to his feet. While sitting on the beach I talked to me other mate Stewart, a man of few words, but much wisdom. Stewart has just returned from G-Land (Grajagan Bay) in E. Java. He stayed at a surf camp and had a great time. Said it was very relaxing and the surf was decent. Stewart said when he got there it was triple overhead, then calmed down to about 5ft, then in the last couple of days was back up to double overhead. Stewart said today something about the wind today being southerly, but changing tomorrow, making the Bukit perfect. I told him I don't go out unless its over 8ft and the 'hardest' wave I"ve ever surfed was at Tubes Bar on Poppies II. It was also the longest ride I've ever had, I could tie my shoelaces and it seemed as though the wave hadn't moved. That's what I call a solid wave!
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*NIAS SURFING INFO*
Dear Surfers,
I have just returned from Nias (August 2005)
The surfing at Sorake right now is excellent – the waves are big and strong !!!
Mostly Australian and european surfers there at the moment.
After the earthquakes and Tsunamis, a few guesthouses are damaged, but finding a good room is absolutely no problem.
If you are looking for a good room in Sorake, go to HORRAS HILTON. Horras has quiet and good rooms right at the water, close to the surfing spot and to the other surf losmens, his mother is a very good cook and Horras is a good surfer and can help you with anything, in case you need something. It is not expensive and these people are reliable and honest.
Al the best
Tobi
Munich / Germany