Every temple in Bali has a birthday or odalan once a year. This morning I was getting over a 2-day allergy attack and planning my next feature article. My pembantu (helper) Wayan told me Pura Petitenget in Seminyak was having its odalan. Pura Petitenget is located at the beach on Jl. Petitenget next to La Lucciola restaurant. The Seminyak / Kerobokan locals celebrate at Pura Petitenget as it occupies an auspicious location, right next to the beach. I knew that in order to gain access to the temple I would have to wear a sarong and a sash. The one I picked up last month at Discovery shopping Mall is very nice with a brown background and a gold decoration. This clashed a bit with my purple sash but we are in Bali and color schemes out here seem to have their own direction.
Riding through Jl. Drupadi from my house just off of Jl. Dhyana Pura, the ride took about 5 minutes. The pecalang (banjar traffic police) guys were manning the parking lot at the temple and directed me to a parking place. They were friendly and said I could go inside as long as I wore a sarong. My sarong-tying skills are bad so I basically wrapped it around myself, grabbed 2 handfuls and tied a knot. The tightly knotted sash acted as security.
The odalan ceremony lasts all day and I saw families arriving with offerings, including battens of fruit balanced on their heads. All offerings brought to a temple are carried by women on their heads. The men have got that one figured out.
People were lingering outside the temple and I said hello to a few locals. Climbing the first set of steps I passed through a candi bentar (split gate) into the outer courtyard). There was a small shrine and a place for offerings. This courtyard led to the middle courtyard which was accessed through a kori agung (stone capped gate). Inside a large courtyard was populated by Balinese people socializing after giving offerings and prayers inside the inner courtyard.
The kul kul (split log drum) tower was decorated in yellow and white symbolizing god. Two massive penjor hung from the outside entrance of the inner courtyard. I asked if I could go in and take a look and was told no. That is okay with me I definitely do not want to impose myself on another cultures celebration. Right outside the inner temple a baris dancer was starting accompanied by the seated gamelan orchestra to the side. The great thing about this temple ceremony was it was fairly low key, close to home and I was the only foreigner there. Balinese ceremonies are not like church services. People here sit and chat in different parts of the temple and the serious part is inside the inner courtyard where prayers are given. The whole event feels rather low key outside people set up the usual ensemble of food stalls and kids toys stalls.
I left after about 40 minutes and know that the celebrations will still be going on till evening.
You can check the calendar for an odalan during your visit to Bali. All you need is a sarong and you are good to go.
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