Intense week of ceremonies coming up in Bali

Bali is all about ceremonies. The Balinese Agama Hindu religion combined with the animist beliefs that linger from ancient times mean daily life and ones life are intertwined with ritual, worship and the giving of offerings.

Next week starting Monday March 7th we have an intense line up of ceremonies which will mean a 4 day trip back to the village for a Balinese person and change of pace for a western visitor.

Tuesday the 8th sees the Melasti ceremony with Balinese people taking to the beach all over the island at auspicious places. For people living in Seminyak be sure to make a trip to Batubelig Beach (La Lucciola restaurant & Pura Petitenget) where hundreds of locals will celebrate Melasti which is a purification ceremony. The beach will be a sea of color and activity. This is a morning event and if you want to show respect wear a sarong and a sash, although no one will stop you from accessing the beach area without them.

Wednesday March 9th is Galungan, the biggest day of the year for most Balinese. This ceremony celebrates the victory of good (dharma) over evil (adharma). Every village in Bali will decorate the streets with large bamboo poles with symbolic hanging decorations, called penjors.

Thursday March 10th is Tawur Agung Kesanga, the welcoming ceremony for Nyepi, which is on the 11th. On the evening of Tawur Agung Kesanga villages parade efigies of monsters around to scare away evil spirits. Kuta Square and Puputan Square in Denpasar are the places to see the best monsters called ogah ogahs.

Friday March 11th is Nyepi, the ritual island wide purification. The deal is that after the ogah ogahs scare away the evil spirits from Bali, they return to see if anyone is around. Everyone must pretend they are not here so the evil spirits will leave Bali alone for another year. No one is allowed out on the streets or beaches, no lights, music, TV, or cooking is allowed. Those staying in hotels must stay inside and keep noise to a minimum. No shops or any businesses are open and the airport is closed allowing no flights in or out of the island.

The banjar traffic police called pecalang patrol the street and will arrest you if you try to go outside. For tourists in Bali it means several things. Most of all your movements and acitivities are restricted, as is your access to goods and services. If you are staying in a cheap guest house make sure you have plenty of food and drinks and reading material. Nyepi is an excellent opportunity to catch up with your Bahasa Indonesia or Balinese history. Those staying in large hotels or resorts have it easier, they being allowed to run services on a lower level than usual. I remember the Hard Rock Hotel running a Nyepi package for 2 days under the slogan, Nyepi Celebrate The Silence.

Expats living in Bali seem to go for 1 of 4 game plans for Nyepi.

1. Leave the island.
2. Stay in a resort and party.
3. Find a friend with enough private land where you can let loose.
4. Find a friend of the opposite sex and lock yourself in your house.

My first year in Bali 2003, I was too dumb to be able to arrange any of these and ended up reading by myself. Last year I went to Lombok which was great. This year I will probably stay at home and catch up on my typing and maybe practice my Bahasa. I am anticipating some of my wifes relatives trying to crash the scene at the last moment, so my Nyepi day might turn into a day I look forward to being over quickly.

If you are staying in Bali during Nyepi it is an excellent opportunity to check into one of the great resorts that are here. If splashing out a ton of cash never seems appropriate for you this might be the time.

I think sharing Nyepi with a Balinese family in a village would be awesome and maybe that will be something I look into for 2006.