Gunung Kawi Bali

Gunung Kawi is sacred spot for Balinese and dates back to the 11th century.

The site is approximately 17 kilometers north east of Ubud, just after the town of Tampaksiring. My guide book says that the tombs or ‘candi’ were a memorial to King Anak Wungsu and his queens. As with many Balinese temples an assortment of vendors have set up around the entrance to the site selling sarongs, t-shirts and drinks. They are not too pushy but will make verbal contact with the few passers by.

Outside the main entrance is a booth selling tickets�adults 4,100rp and children 2,100rp. I brought a sarong with me but no sash. A little way down the hill was a lady with a booth that was set up for ’sash rentals’ for a donation price, I gave 1,000rp. The sash is important as it separates the clean upper half of the body from the unclean lower half when tied around the waist. You then proceed through a ‘candi bentar’ or split entrance down a long set of steps that pass more vendors, rice terraces and locals doing their laundry.

Close to the bottom of the steps is a walkway carved out of the rock with an archway at the bottom. A small sign directs those entering to splash holy water over their heads from the pot provided. I used the little brush to splash water on my head 3 times, which seemed appropriate.

At the bottom of the steps I swung to the left and immediately saw a collection of 4 large candi with a traditional bale structure in front. These are called the Queen’s Tombs. On the left side there was also a tomb carved out of the rock. It’s a pretty impressive sight to see something ancient like this which has been hacked out of the rock. Archeologists believe these 4 tombs were for the kings minor consorts. They also have never found any bones buried here so the actual person may not have been buried here, although there are inscriptions over the false door on each is an inscription to the dead queen. My guide book tells me that originally these candi’s would have been plastered and decorated. Nothing remains of the plaster and all that is left is the outline of a single false door. Each candi has this outline as well as a hollow covered by a stone lid at the base. The design of the candi is in 3 sections to represent heaven, earth and hell.

The Pakrisan River runs through the center of the temple with a cement bridge providing access to the other side. I stopped and ate a ‘nasi bunkus’ ( rice with vegetables and meat) from a vendor for 2,000rp.

Moving across the river I ascended some steps to the right and entered the candi bentar of the outer courtyard of a temple. This is Gunung Kawi temple complex. The temple itself was deserted and I moved past temple structures including a bale gong ( gamelan pavilion ) and other all purpose bales. There are all a collection of rooms carved into the rock face which were probably built by the holy men who’s responsibility it was to look after the tombs.

At the far end of the courtyard was another candi bentar (split gate ) which led to the last 5 of the Royal Tombs which are carved out of the opposing side of the valley wall. These 5 tombs are said to be in honor of the king and his favourite wives. The candi on the left is slighly higher than the other and is probably King Anak Wingsu.

I enjoyed checking out the small cloistered rooms which you enter through a narrow doorway. There’s a sign outside asking you to remove footwear and not to touch the rock. Some are carved out of the rock with others made of brick.

There was one extra special little room with a sign saying ‘Don’t Enter’.

I’m not an expert on Balinese cultural history and casually browsed the whole site which took about 40 minutes.

Returning back across the river and up the hill there is another candi off to the left and down a track. It is said this belonged to a high figure in the royal household. I didn’t see one myself.

To visit Gunung Kawi from Kuta head to Sanur on the Bypass, then up to Ubud before cutting over to Pejeng and up to Tampaksiring. There are actually a couple of different routes but if you don’t know where going its best to aim for large places. From Kuta it’s around 90 minutes by car.

After visiting Gunung Kawi you might like to check out the more modern Balinese temple of Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu at Tirta Empul, a short ride to the north.

For a more scientific description of Gunung Kawi check out Barrie’s article.