Exploring Pura Goa Lawar in Bali

Bali has supposedly over 20,000 temples including family temples, village temples and special geographically significant temples such as Pura Tanah Lot and Pura Besakih.

The reason for so many temples is that every family must have its own small temple in the family compound and every village must have 3 temples, the Pura Puseh ( temple of origin) which celebrates the village founders, the Pura Desa (village temple) which is located centrally and is the hub of village life and the Pura Dalem (temple of the dead) where cremation ceremonies are held.

The 9 directional temples in Bali face different directions and protect Bali fron the evil spirits that linger in the universe.

Barrie, Candika and I visited one of the directional temples today, Pura Goa Lawar founded in 1007, close to Candi Dasa. Goa Lawar is on the coast and we got our there by using the coastal road out of Sanur. The trip from Kuta took about and hour and a half in the rented Kijang I picked up this morning for 125,000rp. Driving in Bali is quite easy when you get used to it. The differences from Australia, the US and Europe is that speeds out here are a lot lower and you can expect many surprises. I find taking it easy and not stressing the best strategy.

Barrie has visited Goa Lawar many years ago and I have driven past many times on my way further east. He told me that the vendors here are extremely pushy and try to hang necklaces on you refusing to take them back and demanding payment. Once again a relaxed attitude will work and as long as you know you aren’t going to buy anything it no worries.

Barrie was correct and as soon as we pulled into the parking area right off the main coastal road women were trying to shove all kinds of items including necklaces and painted eggs in our faces.

Outside the inner courtyard we chatted to a group of mostly men gathered under a bale. They were friendly and eager to have the photo taken.

Fortunately for us a temple ceremony was starting as our visit coincided with a full moon. Donning our sarongs and sashes we entered the inner courtyard and tried our best to keep a low profile and out of the way of people who were praying. A high priest (pedanda) was conducting the ceremony in Kawi (Ancient Javanese) and a section of women in traditional costume were providing vocal accompaniment. The prayer sessions would go in spurts with prayers offered for a minute or 2 and blessings received, then a minute or 2 of rest.

Temperatures today were high and we were all sweating and trying to stay out of the scorching sun. Local ladies occupied a bale structure facing the cave for shade. A Balinese tour guide ushered a few other tourists in and told them the appropriate places to stand, basically not in front of anyone praying. Barrie knows the rules too and we got a good reception from locals people after they finished praying.

At the back of Goa Lawar is a cave with hundreds of bats. It’s a weird scene and but like the monkeys at Sanggeh the Balinese believe the bats are not to be messed with. They also believe that the cave at Goa Lawar leads underground to Pura Besakih.

It always amazes me how Balinese people can take time off of work in the middle of the week and how relaxed they all seem about it. I saw plenty of smiles as always and people sitting and chatting to their neighbor.

Parking at Pura Goa Lawar was 1,000rp and the entrance fee was 3,300rp. Sarongs and sashes can be rented at the door but its always better to buy a cheap sarong and in Kuta if you are thinking of visiting temples.

We spent maybe 50 minutes in all observing the ceremony and taking a cold drink afterwards. Many of the kids and vendors were trying to sell us single dollar bills and other foreign currency. They had obviously asked other tourists for a souvenir and were cashing it in.

We were lucky today that a ceremony was going on, the temple really came to life. Most of the time there will not be a ceremony and the best thing is to ask a local when the next big ceremony will be.

Our next stop was Kerta Gosa in Klungkung which you will hear about besok (that’s ‘tomorrow’ for the slow ones).