Living in Bali is a wonderful and there are many things I appreciate. I was talking to Sean whilst in Thailand about the pluses.
For me these include great weather, a villagey atmosphere, friendly people, interesting culture and great scenery.
Yesterday I walked down Jalan Legian towards Jalan Pantai Kuta and watched local guys tying up bamboo poles outside the temple in preparation for the full moon celebration. The Lunar cycle is integral to the Balinese religion. There are 2 calendars in Bali besides the western calendar. The Hindi Saka calendar and the Wuku calendar.
The Saka has years with 354-356 days and is about 80 years behind the western calendar. The Wuku calendar is based on the Lunar cycle with 210 days per year. The calendar is divided into weeks that have 10,9,8�..1 days in. All the weeks run concurrent with a different name for each week. All this helps the priests figure out the absolute best days for weddings, funerals etc.
Walking furthur down Legian I saw that the cops had blocked off the junction with Jalan Pantai Kuta with banjar guys telling them what to do. A funeral procession slowly passed through with Balinese people in tradition costume. Older ladies, mothers, teenage girls carried the offerings in their arms and on their heads, while the men walked in groups. A gamelan orchestra marched too including the gong player and a company of symbol players. Balinese dancers added to the color of the whole thing. The outfits the ladies were wearing are made up of a blouse called a kebaya which is thin and partially see through, a sarong called a kain kamben and a sash called a selempot. Men usually wear jacket and a sarong called a kamben sarung and a head wrap called a udeng.
The party headed off toward Jalan Bakung Sari and I headed down towards Kuta Square. I noticed the latest exchange rates being offered on the street. If you on holiday and want to change money make sure you do it at a proper money changer and not just some guys with a sign and a table.
These horse and carriage guys were busy on Jalan Kartika Plaza encouraging new arrivals to take a leisurely ride through the traffic with them. I strolled down past the art market to the beach again. The funeral party had made the beach and was heading in the direction of the Hard Rock Hotel. I didn’t think they were going to watch a show but rather set up on the beach for their ceremony.
After reaching a point on the beach close to the HRH they gathered around a small platform and the ladies began to assemble their offerings. After setting the goods out in appropriate fashion most people got comfortable under the shade of the low palms and the whole show got underway with the gamelan orchestra beating out a rhythmic tune on their xylophones and symbols. These guys are very skillful as one hand holds a hammer to beat the notes and the other follows right behind to dull the note after it has rang. I imagine it would take quite a while to learn how to do this.
Seated next to the platform was the widow of the deceased. She started out in an al white outfit and added black sashes over her middle and shoulder as the ceremony progressed. To the accompaniment of the gamelan orchestra she recited prayers and performed rituals which included splashing holy water on herself, making offerings with flowers and flicking them in the air and ringing a small bell.
I noticed 2 rows of bamboo poles that lead down to the water and could tell it was symbolic of a pathway. I made sure not to enter although I did see one guy with a big surfboard stroll through the middle of this without the slightest care about what was going on.
A older woman and a priest ( pedanda ) walked down the pathway towards the water. She stopped 20 meters from the water’s edge while he went in the water to perform a blessing, offering something to the ocean. I asked my cleaner Ketut if considering the demon dwell in the ocean and the gods live in the mountains, would a similar offering be made in the mountains. She said no.
I must say this was a lovely spot for a ceremony and plenty of tourists gathered to check out what was going on. Balinese Hinduism seems quite relaxed and people talk and get comfortable during the whole process. Across the street I saw 4 of the local guys in costume sitting outside Circle K all drinking a beer.
The afternoon was wearing on and I didn’t want to stand around for to long so called it quits. This was another unique opportunity to sample a piece of Balinese culture and visitors can ask locals if they can accompany them to ceremonies while here.
(This article is missing most of its photos due to technical difficulties. Check it out another time for an update. )
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Nick,
Thanks that was excellent, wow I need to come back & get married again, to have photo’s taken with the new camera!!!!
Well guys, we have sent a fax & today I will also email, to make our interview date & I am going to beg for one asap, hoping something like next 2 weeks is available, although I just have no idea how far in advance etc these things are booked!
Another couple are married she is living in Melb, she was pregnant,so hubby got a 6 month visa to be here when baby was born! They organised for him to have his interview on 26th August, so he flew back to Jakarta as he had been here 4 months & baby is born & well.He flew to Jkt on the 24th, had interview on the 26th arrived back in Melb on Saturday (6th) with his residency!!! They lodged the application in June!!!!
Let’s keep praying Barrie that similar can happen for Gede, Maddy & myself!!!!
Thanks all the extra poraying from ALL has paid off so far!!!
There was a program on Aussie TV posing the question: has the Bali Bombing destroyed the heart and soul of Bali? The first anniversary of the destruction is a month away so it has been getting more air play here recently.
I wonder at the people who will watch that TV program and not see a post like this and get a different perspective.
Hi Nick,
Thanks for that story and all the colourful pics. Yes it’s not a wonder you are enjoying your life in Bali.
I just wanted to let you know that I really do enjoy your website and also Barrie’s contributions and all the other post’ers on here.
Cheers,
Ann
The heart of Bali is intact and the people’s commitment to tier culture is unshakeable. With or without tourism the Balinese will carry on.
I have noticed a reduction in the number of tourists since coming back from Thailand. I think August was the peak of this summer season.
Tracey, I hope things work out for you asap. Gede is a super guy.
Chris,
yeah I wonder if perhaps people whom may have never travelled outside their square, but were effected by the bombing, say perhaps losing a family member or friend etc…
I wonder if they would have felt what I felt when watching that program & other Bali addict’s felt….
Nick, Gede is a top guy, you are not so bad yourself…
I sent him a Ganesh on a Lotus flower today… I am requesting this to be the newest tattoo!!! He likes the fact I am at work hunting down the best Ganesh tattoo! I am thinking of getting my dragon fly done soon….. I might wait until he is here to hold my hand!!!!
Hopefully they got his fax & are currently replying to him, saying come on over for your interview early next week!!!!
Anyway I am so glad your back in Bali, I really missed all your news etc!!!!
Take Care….
Nick, just had a look at the added pic’s. Not sure I’d be happy about thin, bikini clad chicks at my wedding!
I hope that people reading this, realise this is their life, they are not putting on a special show for tourists to get in the middle of etc… Like the surfer! Imagine it was a funeral in the west, you would not like some stranger (bikini or not) walking up having a good look & then walking away…. These ceremonies are a daily occurence all over Bali, but it is not a peformance as such, it is their way of life.
Tracey, I’m so glad to hear your good news. You know we are rooting for a “happily ever after” for you.
Nick is right abt going to an authorized money changer. The shady places entice you with attractive rates, but ultimately it’s not worth the trouble and you’ll still end up with a better rate at the legit places. When I was there in July, almost all places would not accept US$100 dated before the year 2000. I think there were counterfeit problems in 1999. There is a changer at Bemo Corner (that Barrie likes) that has a machine that will authenticate dollar bills and they took my 1999 US$100 with nary a fuss.
I’ve to agree with Tracey on the thin bikini clad chicks. They could have wrapped a sarong around themselves. If they had to be scantily clad, couldn’t they at least be fat and ugly too?
One western lady was leading her 2 year old son around naked (him not her )and sat right next to the funeral party under the trees. I could tell some people were a bit uncomfortable with this as you never see local kids hanging out naked especially at a religious event.
G’Day Nick,
Extremely well written with an accompaniment of excellent fotos. You not only captured the feelings of the moment, but also the interaction wiht weaterners, who at times, do tend to be less respectful…that or ignorance of a beautiful culture.
Tracey,
…Isa still prayin’ honey child!!
This was like looking through a National Geographic issue. Fantastic shots.
I found this…if you get a chance
Ciao! mamanxx