Miguel Covarrubias describes a scene in 1930’s Bali, where Dutch expats enjoy a Rijtstaffel (rice table). Unlike traditional Indonesia food, where a couple of dishes are served, the Rijtstaffel has multiple small dishes and pyramid of steaming rice. Covarrubias says that in the hot afternoons the wealthy Dutch would enjoy a Rijtstaffel served by white uniformed staff, taking their time, enjoying all the different dishes and drinking way too much cold beer.
I thought that sounded wonderful! Back in 1986 I ate a mini version of a Rijtstaffel in an Amsterdam restaurant, home to many Indonesians. My friend Mike just got back from Ambon and I suggested to him we look for a Rijtstaffel where he lives in Sanur. I sms’d a friend of mine, Gerry Williams from BaliEats to ask his opinion. He told me the best Rijtstaffel was Warung Enak in Ubud (15 small courses for 150,000rp). I know some hotels do Rijtstaffel, but may need some advanced warning.
Whatever, I’m looking forward to trying to locate one and acting like a Dutch expat.
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could it be “een rijsttafel” ? cause rice = rijst in dutch
Hi Nick,
Is Rijtstaffel = Nasi tumpeng? It is a pyramid of yellow/plain rice with many dishes such as chicken, meat, fish and vegetables and they are nicely arranged around the “rice pyramid”? If I am not mistaken, Nasi tumpeng is like our wedding cake. Ask Ika, she will tell you about it. Probably you had Nasi tumpeng at your wedding too.
Hi,
Being Dutch I feel obliged to tell you the word is actually ‘rijsttafel’ :-). Many restaurants here in Amsterdam serve them, excellent food!
FYI
Quote Rijsttafel
(Dutch: “rice table”), an elaborate meal of Indonesian dishes developed during the Dutch colonial era. It is popular In The Netherlands and at both Dutch and Indonesian restaurants abroad.
In essence the rijsttafel consists of rice and foods to accompany it: curried meats, fish, chicken, vegetables, fruits, relishes, pickles, sauces, condiments, nuts, eggs, and so on. The dinner is served a plate of rice and chooses from among the side dishes to achieve a balance of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour accompaniments. A rijsttafel of 40 dishes was not uncommon, the meal sometimes taking three to four hours to consume. -Encyclopedia Brilannica-Unquote
Check out Bumbu Bali, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua.
Superb meal, stuffed after the starters and the food just keeps coming.
http://www.balifoods.com/bumbu/menu/index.html
Hello Nick,
If you want to see how a “rijsttafel” was served, then let me know. I have some very rare film footage from around 1920 in wich you can see the ‘rijsttafel’.
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