After a good night's sleep (all day on the bike exhausted me), the first order of business was breakfast. Nick and I wandered across the street to the café that was behind the surf shop and right on the water. The surf was low, but the waves were coming in in quick succession and it felt like there was some power behind them. I’d thought about taking a dip and Nick promised to wave to me as I got swept out to Lombok.
Breakfast was a couple of pancakes, fruit and Bali coffee, and afterwards I took a stroll down the beach, following the same route Nick and I drove the night before. There was the odd boat in the water and a couple of people swimming at the other end of the bay. Felt good to be on a beach again, but my city feet could not handle walking on the rocks that would replace the sand every so often. They were small, smooth stones, but what can I say, I’m a wimp. Hopefully my time in Oz will toughen me up.
Back at the hotel, we settled the bill and Nick had a long conversation with the staff about the how Balinese calendar differs from the national calendar and how the date for the Galungan festival changes, but always begins on a Wednesday twice a year (maybe you can help us out with the details here, Barrie?).
On the bikes again, we stopped for petrol before cruising back to the junction at Culik. Along the way we passed many lines of locals in traditional clothes walking down the road with offerings, on their way to celebrate Galungan. This was to be repeated throughout the day and lots of folks were out on the streets in all the small villages we passed.
As we were leaving the coast, we stopped to check out some fantastic scenery – hills, rice terraces, and ocean. Nick went nuts with the camera and while I was waiting I noticed this guy. He’d dropped his sandal as he was cruising down the hill. Instead of stopping, getting off the bike to go get it, he simply wheeled around, drove up to the sandal, turned back around and tried to slip it on with his foot while balancing his son in front of him and somehow keeping an eye (or not) on the traffic that could blast around the blind corner at any second. The first two attempts failed but the third was the charm and he passed us with a smile at a job well done.
Having forgone the swim in the ocean, Nick suggested we stop at the Royal Pools at Tirtagangga for a dip. He told me these grounds were built for a king (prince?) who actually helped out with the heavy lifting. We paid Rp 3000 each to enter the complex which consisted of two large pools, filled with moss and small fish, and a few open air gathering places. There is also a temple and a restaurant in the trees on the hill, but we headed to the Royal Pool itself, ducking past the dozing gatekeeper charging Rp 6000.
The Royal Pool is probably close to 50 metres long, the water’s cool and the tiny fish don’t bother you. Very refreshing to float around, do a few laps and escape the heat. There were three local guys contemplating the water when we arrived. While Nick and I jumped right in, these blokes stretched and warmed up for about 15 minutes. I figured they were about to tear up and down the length of the pool, but in fact they just eased themselves into the pool, meandered from side to side, chatted to Nick, or sat on the edge. Occasionally one would get a wild hair and launch into about 10 metres worth of freestyle.
As we prepared to leave, two Dutch or German travelers showed up and put on a fine display of diving and general horseplay. Passing locals would come over to see what all the noise was about. On the way out, we stopped for a snack (some very tasty fish satay) from one of the street vendors that lined the short road from the complex gate to the parking lot.
Back on the road we headed towards the coast again and stopped briefly in Candi Dasa so Nick could visit the only ATM. We decided that we’d stop in Padang Bai for something to eat. Nick seemed pretty sure about where we were going and he took us to a warung right on the beach. There were fishing boats on the sand and further around the bay, the Lombok ferries were loading up. We decided on the predators menu for lunch, Nick chose the shark and I ordered the barracuda. Nick reported that Jaws was pretty tasty, but the barracuda (or the way it was cooked) was extremely salty and it was difficult to finish.
While eating we were approached by a couple of vendors selling their wares. This guy had a fine collection of watches in any brand you could name – Seiko, Breitling, Ferrari, etc – and assured they were very inexpensive. Next up to the plate was Nyoman, selling a variety of sarongs. She thought Nick might like to buy matching ones for himself and his brother (me), but it wasn’t to be.
Leaving Padang Bai, the plan was to follow the coast road through Kusamba and meet up with the bypass that would take us over the top of Denpasar. Less traffic and a far more pleasant ride. As it turned out, we got a little lost. A combination of ambiguous signage and a bum steer from a well-meaning local set us on the road to Klungkung and Gianyar. No big deal, just not quite as scenic and more concentration required to negotiate heavier traffic. We also dipped more into Denpasar than we would have liked, but got out without too much trouble and made it back to Seminyak in one piece.
After napping for a couple of hours, it was time to wash the grime off and head to Kuta to meet up with Barrie and get the scoop on what had been happening here. Not much was the report as most places were closed for Galungan. We checked email for an hour or so at Internet Outpost, ate some chow while watching Matrix Reloaded with Indonesian subtitles.
It had been a full couple of days and plenty of miles on the bike. It was great fun and I highly recommend to anyone coming to Bali to take some time and drive out to the east coast. It’s quiet, beautiful, diving and snorkeling are available, and right now you have the entire place to yourself.
Subscribe
|
Print
|
Share             
|
The 2 author trip is a good idea…well done. Chris, how do the Nike dry fits work? for riding etc.?
Like a dream, mate. I want more of that stuff. They’re perfect for hot weather and keeping the sun off. I think I forgot to bring the white one we wanted to give to Nick, so I gave him the larger of the blue one I’m wearing. If you find the white one, I guess you can bring it to BKK in August.
And thanks, Barrie. The fotos are all Nick though. He’s got taking great snaps down pat.
Chris,
Par excellence!. Well structured and a brilliant read, and the fotos are brilliant!. Whadya mean you can’t write???????