The Modernisation of Tenganan

Returning to Tenganan after 18 years was an exciting prospect even though I knew there would be a certain amount of change - modernisation if you like. However, my enthusiasm and excitement were dashed the moment Nick drove the vehicle into the small gravel carpark where once was a patch of high ground. When I first visited it was the domain of the cattle, and now, tourist buses.

Perhaps if I briefly describe my previous visit 18 years ago, then you will understand my immense disappointment. Back then, it was like walking back in time as we entered the village. Curious children ran up to the vehicle and the many villagers outside the compound stood and stared. Inside the compound, a few souvenir stalls were set up near the entrance and, the villagers went about their business in a slow gait. Stock animals wandered aimlessly through the village flicking the occasional pesky flies with their tails. There were maybe two or three weavers of the renowned double-ikat cloth willing to show you the process for a small fee. The Tengananese were friendly, even courteous. I recall talking to the Kepala Desa (village head), in a fashion, and was informed that maybe three or four tourist buses visited his village each week.

And now, Tenganan has been dragged into the 21st Century. The ticket stand at the southern entrance charging Rp4,000 per head should have been an indication of what was to be revealed. Once inside, the first thing I noticed was the numerous motorbikes parked in groups under the shade of the few trees within the compound. The male youth of the village listlessly slumped in groups looking somewhat disillusioned with themselves; perhaps their way of life. As Nick and I walked slowly through the village, I was taken aback by the high number of souvenir stalls selling an assortment of lontar-leaf calendars, trinkets and the like. But it was the longhouse style brick and mortar buildings on either side of the compound that the villagers lived in [or supposedly lived in] that made me shake my head in wonder. Almost every house had been converted into a shop of sorts, complete with the appropriate sign hung on the wall outside offering weaving demonstrations and cloth for sale. Some shops sold artifacts – statues, masks and carvings.

The cattle lazed around near the well and the older women still dressed only in a sarong and bare-breasted drew water from the well, but not by bucket but by pump now. The younger women, carrying firewood or buckets on their heads, seemed to walk around lost as they carried on their domestic duties. I was amused by the coloured chickens, their feathers dyed, and I was told it was for the children that this was done. Everywhere we looked there were caged roosters and we were even approached when taking fotos and offered a cockfight performance, for a price of course.

The once beautiful Bale’s and other buildings have long since fell into a state of disrepair. It was as if the villagers had ‘locked-on’ to the ring of the till from the tourist dollar. This was more than evident when I had a short but sharp conversation with one of the souvenir sellers:

Wombat: I was here 18 years ago and I am surprised at the change in the village.

Seller: (Abrupt tone) What’s wrong with the village?. Now I have a motorbike. We have TV and electricity and…a phone!.

It was my point precisely!. Too many cultures in this world are decimated by the tourist dollar. Not only that, the intrusion of the modern world has an overall affect upon the social, religious and political aspects of that society. So much so that it literally forces the entire socio-cultural structure to undergo a metamorphosis in order for adaptation. Having said that, tourism is good for the state of the economy in any country. However, when it has a serious affect on the core culture of that country, then it becomes disadvantageous.

The Tengananese have been regarded as perhaps the wealthiest villagers on the island. It was traditional for them to lease their lands to other villagers outside the compound. From this the Tengananese received a share of the crop yielded. As to the existence of this share-cropping nowadays I am uncertain. No doubt they still practice the rituals and ceremonies of their ancient culture. As the seller said to me as I slowly walked away – “Of course I still practice my religion!. Hey…you can have this lontar calendar for Rp100,000″.

Tenganan is still a good place to visit to see the structured layout of this unique Bali Aga. As for me, I’ll take Nick up into the mountains and visit the Bali Aga villages remote from the tide of modernization.

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• Legend of Tenganan

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