For centuries mankind has benefitted from the sharing of the culture within their respective societies. It has enabled understanding, created respect and bonded friendships. It is the traveller who, with their innate desire to understand and appreciate diferent cultures and societies, has benefitted the most from early times to the modern day.
On the recent roadtrip with Nick to the north of the island, we were confronted with what I can only say was sheer greed. After the situation, I was left pondering the one thing I have never had to do in all my years in Indonesia - when does the dollar become more important than the sharing of a culture.
The situation mentioned ocurred on our boat trip across Dauau Batur to Trunyan. I had been to this village a long time ago. At that time, I was able to walk freely throughout the village and wander around both temples. The people I spoke to were friendly and pleased to share their culture and way of life. Even at the Bali Aga graveyard I wandered around unhindered. Naturally, I made small donations at both temples and at the graveyard. From memory, in all Rp25,000.
The increase in tourism has altered all of this. A new generation of Bali Aga has spawned a disappointing culture of greed.
It began the moment we landed on the shores below the village. The villagers bathing in the lake glared disconcertingly, and before we knew it, about fifteen locals approached us led by a young man who obviously wielded influence in the Bali Aga community. The manner was not congenial and we were virtually herded up to the smaller temple flanked by this crowd who incessantly asked question after question. It was virtually impossible to take fotos.
At the steps leading to the temple were neatly placed a Rp100,000 note, on top of that a Rp50,000 note, and both being weighed down by an Australian $2 gold coin.
“You must pay to enter” the head honcho stated emphatically, as he glanced down at the notes wafting in the breeze.
Such visual insistence was unwarranted. Like most travellers, we w ould have gladly made a small donation to the upkeep of the temple. However, this was blatant exploitation!. Stunned as we were with such demands, it was Candika who slapped down a Rp10,000 note onto the step and stood her ground. A few minutes later, Nick and I were in the smaller temple taking fotos, head honcho following us and still persisiting with inane questions. When I mentioned that I would like to enter the main temple where the megalithic statue of Ratu Gede Pancering Jagat stood, it was an instant refusal. All manner of excuses were given but, if I had crossed his palm with currency then I would have been inside that temple in a flash.
Any other temple in Bali, the Pemangku would have gladly [and proudly] shown us the ‘treasures’ within his temple. He would have shared with us his knowledge of Balinese culture and allow us to delight in seeing the relics.
Our return to the Perhau, disgusted and disappointed, wasn’t without incident. Demands of money circulated within the conversation right up to the time we entered the perahu and left the shore. Our next destination, the Bali Aga graveyard. On our journey we were followed by a few villagers in wooden canoes, one of them being the head honcho.
When we landed on the shore near the site of the graveyard, we were approached by a two villagers insiting we pay Rp250,000 to enter the graveyard. Our departure was quicker than our arrival when matters started getting heated and, our refusal to pay was met with anger. One strange thing though, as we were paddling away, the price had dropped from Rp250,000 to Rp50,000.
In conclusion, this blatant exploitation of an ancient culture is scandalous. I know if a traveller visited my hometown then I would be more than happy to share with them the culture and attractions.
For those folk planning on visiting Trunyan, just be aware of the traps that exist there. I wouldn’t be surprised that at some time in the future you will find a money-changer or an ATM hidden behind the rocks at the Bali Aga graveyard and a cash-register at the village. Such is the greed. It was truly disappointing to see the exploitation of an ancient culture on the paradise island of Bali. We would have gladly paid a small donation as we have done when visiting other temples and sacred sites on this beautiful island. But, when the ‘ring’ of the dollar drowns out the serenity of sharing and appreciating a culture, then I for one bow out.
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I think this whole situation is a comment on human nature rather than just the Bali Aga. Just seems a shame when one hopes for a higher level of encounter and people will just not let you have a chance at it.
sad article barrie, but you present the situation - and your emotions surrounding it - very well, and it’s hard not to feel the same way.
That’s a very disappointing, Barry, and I know you instance isn’t an isolated one. It’s happening in many parts of the world.
Unfortunately, probably from years of rich people coming to visit their culture and snapping photos, it’s kind of not hard to be tainted. Sad but true.
The locals down on the lake have a long reputation of UGLY.
We negotiated a boat price into the village but not out……
U can finish that one….
The exploitation is everywhere, you taking pictures for material gain, him selling his product. Maybe if he smoothed out his marketing techniques he would not come off so abrasive …..
Sad story. I for one wouldn’t put up with it. Tell him to get stuffed and walk away - ruining his chance of any revenue. At the end of the day, no temple is worth the hassle.
I wonder if they have ever heard the story about killing the goose which laid the golden eggs.