The day before Galungan in Bali

Today is January 13th 2004 in Bali.

Not that important you might think but for Balinese its the day before Galungan, the most important day of their year.

The most obvious thing for visitors is that the streets in every village are decorated with Penjor, an offering suspended from tall, curved bamboo pool with decorations. The arch represents Gunung Agung, the big volcano is east Bali. The body is the river that flows from the mountains to the sea, and along its route are the things of the harvest, which are tied to the pole. The foot of the pole is a temporary shrine. Riding around you wil locals preparing this.

You will notice also many businesses are closed as Balinese go back to their villages for the celebration.

This bakso ( chicken ball soup ) vendor looks like he’s going to have a good Galungan.

When Chris was here in July he saw Galungan and this is because the Balinese Hindus use the Saka lunar calendar and the 210-day Pawukon calendar. Each of 30 seven-day weeks in one Pawukon cycle has unique name. The ten days between Wednesday of Dunggulan, the 11th week, and Saturday of Kuningan, the 12th week, are a period called Galungan or Galungan Days, starting on the Galungan and ending on the day Kuningan.

Galungan is the most important religious celebration for the Balinese. The Galungan festivity marks the victory of dharma (order) over adharma (disorder). According to the local legend, centuries ago, Bali came to be ruled by an evil tyrant called Mayadenawa, who banned religious festival, tore down temples and punished anyone caught worshipping their gods. While he reigned, pestilence and famine raged across the island. Indra, god of storms and war, heard the island’s prayers and came to earth with a great army to destroy Mayadenawa. Following the terrible battles, the evil king was killed in the hills of Gianyar. He died on Rebo (Wednesday) of the 11th week of Pawukon calendar. Mayadenawa symbolizes the adharma and the day of his killing marks the victory of dharma over adharma. The Balinese Hindus express this victory with prayers, the feast, offerings and also the get-togetherness.

Aside than that, the Balinese Hindus believe their deified ancestors descend to their former homes during Galungan. These ancestors must be entertained, and welcomed with prayers and offerings. Families with deceased relatives who are buried and have not yet been cremated-thus not yet deified-must make offerings at the graves. The visit of these ancestors is expected to last until Kuningan.

Today, the day before Galungan is called Penampahan and animals are slaughtered for the Galungan feast. Turtles are killed for the traditional Galungan morning snack. The other main dishes include babi guling (roast pig), traditional lawar (a spicy mix of vegetables, meat and pig’s blood). When I talk to locals they lick their lips at the thought of babi guling and lawar.

Penampahan also symbolizes the slaughter of the bad things that represented by the slaughtered animals’ bad behaviors. This is a symbolic victory of order over disorder.

Galungan day is a time for prayer, family get-together and offering. People pray at the family temples and some other temples. Usually people who live in town go to the hometown to visit their elders.

People have told me that during Galungan one must think of ones actions over the last year and ask relatives for forgiveness for ones actions. Can you imagine how this would play out in California!


By Nick | Permalink

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Comments

Nick (another one) | January 14th, 2004 at 12:38 am
top comment

Hi Nick,
Love your writing - I’m going to Bali in February and would like you advice on two things:

- As I plan to drive around and go to less touristy parts of the island, do you think it is safe for me to rent a car, or is it truly a problem?

- Are there white sandy beaches in other places than Kuta, Legian and this whole area, that you like and are much less touristy?

I know you are very busy running this great “journal”, but if you have any advice on other places for me to go where I can chill as far as possible from other tourists, that would be cool.

Thanks man!

Nick

Nick | January 14th, 2004 at 10:33 am
top comment

Hi Nick,

You can rent a Toyota Kijang for 125,000rp per day which is quite cheap or go really cheap with a Suzuki…maybe 75,000rp per day.

Driving over here takes a while to get used to…more variables but the traffic goes slow so its no worries as long as you try not to get frustrated. Definitely better than taking buses. Renting a scooter is easy too.

Onr of the nicest beaches is Dreamland beach on the west side of the Bukit peninsular. This has some toursit development on a very low level…warungs, surf boards shops etc.

All along the south coast of the Bukit you’ll find many deserted lovely beaches.

I think that with your own tranpsport getting away from the south of the island will mena you are away from most of the tourists. When my brother Chris, Erica nad I drove around to the east coast on an overnight we probalby saw 4-5 other tourists the whole time.

Barrie | January 14th, 2004 at 10:47 am
top comment

G’Day Nick,

Excellent and informative write-up!. Ya gotta love the dmile on the vendor’s face eh.

Did you try his Bakso?.

Tracey.D. | January 14th, 2004 at 11:42 am
top comment

Nick,
Hope you can remember how to get to Gede’s family home???

EskimoGirl | January 14th, 2004 at 1:39 pm
top comment

Hey Nick Thanks for this informative blog. Galungan is one festival I know very little about. I’ll be back in Bali in a couple of weeks. What can I bring you from Alaska? Deb

Nick (another one) | January 14th, 2004 at 5:42 pm
top comment

Thanks Nick!
I’m truly impressed by your journal and the whole community you brought together. Here I am sitting in my Paris office, through continuous cold and rain, and already dreaming of by Bali escape. Thanks for the advice… Maybe, with a bit of luck, I’ll get to bump into you in an internet cafe when I’m in Bali!! Good luck with your house search…
Nick

eliot | January 14th, 2004 at 6:33 pm
top comment

I´m coming to Bali early february, and I´ve heard there´s a lot of pollution and garbage in the waters, is this everywhere or mainly at Kuta?
Grrrreeat site!:)

Shasta MacNasty | January 14th, 2004 at 11:15 pm
top comment

Ok. You had me with the spicy mix of veggies and mix. You lost me at the pig blood. :)
Very interesting to ask relatives for forgiviness. Forget California…I’m interested to see how that plays out in the Ozarks…

http://www.shastamacnasty.com/blog.html

Shasta MacNasty | January 14th, 2004 at 11:15 pm
top comment

Ok. You had me with the spicy mix of veggies and mix. You lost me at the pig blood. :)
Very interesting to ask relatives for forgiviness. Forget California…I’m interested to see how that plays out in the Ozarks…

http://www.shastamacnasty.com/blog.html

Tracey.D. | January 15th, 2004 at 4:03 am
top comment

Shasta,
Usually Lawar (made with pigs blood) is used at important ceremonies. You can’t tell unless you know. we had it at our Balinese wedding, akk Westerners there would have tried it & most enjoyed it going back for seconds, a day or 2 later I explained what it was & they were grossed out, but ended with a shrug of the shoulders & commets of “well I guess I didn’t know & it tasted alright!” I know what it is, but I still eat it & don’t think about it, which is what you pretty much have to do in Asia!!!! If it tastes alright, why not!?

Nick, Barrie have some idea’s & over the next 12 months hope to start getting more info etc & thoughts about it, hoping we can discuss, just toss around some thoughts etc…. Been on my mind for a while now…. Hopefully it will help bring back tourists to Bali.. Talk to you soon….

Tracey.D. | January 15th, 2004 at 4:34 am
top comment

A MAGICAL BRIDGE??????

Bridge linking Sumatra, Java, Bali planned

JAKARTA - The Indonesian government is currently considering a plan to build bridges that will link the islands of Sumatra, Java and Bali, a minister has announced.
“We have the target that in the next two years, (the construction) can be started,” Settlement and Regional Infrastructure Minister Soenarno said.

Soenarno was quoted by Tempo online news as saying that there already is an investor from the United States who is prepared to invest in the project to span the 25 kilometer Sunda Strait and link Sumatra to Java.

A Chinese company, he said, has also offered to partially fund a bridge linking Java and Bali.

The minister did not name the potential investors nor gave more details on the two bridges.

Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago with over 17,700 islands.

The government is planning to link the three main islands to encourage a more even spread of development and population between them.

Java and Bali are the country’s most densely populated islands, with more than half of the 214 million Indonesians living there, while the much larger Sumatra island is still generally underpopulated.

Barrie | January 15th, 2004 at 11:23 am
top comment

G’Day Tracey,

Look forward to the ideas!.

Back in the 1990’s, plans were drawn up to link Madura with Surabaya. The bulbs in the minds of the mega-rich sparked furiously and the connecting bridge-to-island plans was tossed around for discussion. It died a slow death.

It would be interesting though if this were to happen, but can you imagine the toll cost!.

Candika told me that they are building an International airport in Yogyakarta to increase the influx of Asian tourists. Subsequently, they will have direct flights arriving from Singers, HK and China, and of course Japan.

All this infrastructure being planned etc and yet the majority of people living in Indonesia virtually live in abject poverty. Have I missed something?

Tracey.D. | January 15th, 2004 at 12:21 pm
top comment

Barrie,
I know what you mean, all this talk of spending etc & throwing money around yet there are so many people living in filth! Kids with no food, clothing, schooling etc, etc….
It sickens me that people are so greedy & don’t help others even though they have more than enough for themselves… I don’t understand it, I dream of the day World Poverty, Hunger & fighting ends… I DREAM!!!

Barrie | January 15th, 2004 at 1:34 pm
top comment

Amen Tracey, Amen.

Michael Steedman | January 15th, 2004 at 4:26 pm
top comment

Hey Frenchie.

We got Saddam.

God Bless America.

Michael Steedman | January 15th, 2004 at 5:13 pm
top comment

That bridge connecting Java to Bali is a great idea. It alleviates the inconvenience of having to ferry your car bomb over.

Barrie | January 15th, 2004 at 6:33 pm
top comment

Michael,

You’ve got a warped sense of humour, I’ll give you that!.

Nick (another one) | January 15th, 2004 at 9:16 pm
top comment

Michael,
If I’m the Frenchie being referred to, I in fact happen to be American, but living in France (which maybe makes me “evil”, I don’t know).

Yes, indeed we got Saddam, but we also have Bush. I’m ready to make a bet that he will catch Ossama a few weeks before election day… and that will get him elected!! That man is a genious.

Anyway, politics has nothing to do in this place… it’s a much too peaceful and joyful place for that!

Nick

Barrie | January 16th, 2004 at 9:49 am
top comment

Baliblog IS a beautiful place. The politics and the pollies with their penchant for destruction can only mar what is beautiful.

Bali, and the world in fact, is our haven. We should all endeavour by all practical means to keep it so enjoyable irregardless of the manical tyrants bent on destroying its beauty in form or the brotherhood of mankind.

Peace to all….

Tracey.D. | January 19th, 2004 at 3:51 am
top comment

Here, Here Barrie!

I want my children, grandchildren, great grandchildren etc, etc, etc & everyone else’s in the world… To enjoy this beautiful place!



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