Sunday morning I was moving later and slower than normal due to checking out some places I haven’t been before the previous night.
I had an invitation to go surfing on Kuta beach with Frida and a couple of tourist friends of hers at 2pm, high tide. Around midday Mick Turnbull phoned and said his companion for a ride in the mountains had shined him, blown him off, flipped him the bird. He was suddenly a man without a plan and wanted to know if he could hop aboard my mini-mal for a afternoon.
He came over on his Aprilia motorbike (which is for sale, 50m rp if you are interested) and we zoomed down the bypass to Kuta. Frida and the other people were camped out on the beach in front of McDonalds getting ready to get wet. There were 2 ladies from California, a guy from Holland (who had never surfed) and us. Mick was eager to see me make a fool of myself and sat on the beach snapping away with his digital camera.
I borrowed a board and a rash vest (tight nylon shirt) from the guys at Bali Learn To Surf located in front of Hard Rock Hotel and they told me not to go out too far as the larger waves were ‘closing out’ ( crashing flat ) fast and if I got into one I might break the board. I didn’t go too far out and waited for decent sized smaller waves that were breaking closer into shore. I managed to get up almost every time I tried and usually had no problem paddling for the waves. The hardest part for me is getting back out to where I want to be and getting lined up. I‘ve got to work on my paddling that is an integral part of surfing. I watched Frida who skillfully ducked under oncoming waves by dipping the tip of her board under the water. Our friend Ebong from Magic Wave showed up after a while and I observed him using a different technique. When a wave was approaching as he was trying to paddle out he would pull himself into a kneeling position, pointing the nose of the board up at a 45-degree angle and ride over the wave. I suspect this is the more risky way to do it as if you judge the wave wrong you could get thrown backwards and slammed.
Frida caught some very nice rides close into shore and the wildest move of the day goes to Mick, who using my board got the hang of it quickly after not surfing for 15 years. I was chest high in the water as he zoomed by trying to stand on a fast moving wave. Realizing he was losing his balance he decided to bail out but instead of exiting to the rear Mick went for the kamikazi move and dived head first into the water, in front of the board and the ‘about to be crashing’ wave.
Locals had told me previously that the water wasn’t too bad because it hasn’t rained in a while. I saw 1 piece of plastic garbage early on but really nothing after that. Of course there is some silt which makes the water slightly cloudy but its not as bad as I had expected. The salt water was stinging my eyes early on though.
Looking around I observed female body boarders from Japan and the US who were very keen and had obviously been practicing for a while. They were going after some of the bigger waves quite fearlessly and doing well. I also saw a guy from a Middle Eastern country all alone with his rented board. Passing by I said hello and offered a tip on paddling for a wave (he was holding on with both hands and using his legs which was never going to work). I think Kuta beach is a great place for grabbing a long board and enjoying yourself, but looking at this guy made me glad I had taken a couple of lessons. He asked me ‘where do I hold on?’ Get yourself a teacher for a day and things will go much safer and quicker.
Mick had arranged with one of the drink vendors to watch our gear, which is a bit risky but they want our business and getting a situation where a group of customers is camped around them is great. I think it’s in their interest to make sure everything is safe.
After a couple of hours I was ready to call it quits as I was heading to Ubud. Sitting under the tress and talking to Ebong I mentioned that I felt lucky to be here in Bali and enjoying a day like this, not expensive at all but a very good time.
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Entertaining read, once again… thanks NICK!!!