Riding south from Pura Sukawati I came to the famous Sukawati market on the main road. If you have never been to Sukawati market its quite obvious when you've arrived because people are selling stuff on both sides of the street. I parked next to a group of flower sellers who had all the vital ingredients to make offerings. Ready made canang (trays of offerings) were also for sale. Every household in Bali and every business has to give offerings and of course not everyone has the time to sit and make them, so you will often see people riding along with bags of offerings. Balinese markets usually start early, by which I mean 4am. Sukawati market is still going at 5pm due largely to the tourists and people from out of town who swing by and pick things up.
Pasar Seni means art market and the 2 storey building on one corner of the intersection is loaded to the rafters with sarongs, t-shirts and shorts. I didn't want anything but couldn't resist asking the price. "Ini berapa harga?" ("How much the price of this?") I asked one lady pointing to a t-shirt. "Dua puluh ribu." (20,000rp) she said. "Mahal sekali!!" (very expensive ) I said. We had some jovial back and forth and I got the t-shirt for 10,000rp. Not really bothered either way I probably could have got it for 5,000rp if I had bought 10 of them. Outside several Japanese tourists were raking through stuff for souvenirs. Across the narrow street a peanut salesman stood next to salak vendors. He was selling boiled corn on the cob and I got one. Standing there chewing it I was surrounded for an instant by ladies offering carvings, but they disappeared after a few polite words in Bahasa.
One lady who did not disappear was a young lady and her baby. They were not selling anything but pity. Tanned and shy looking (apart from the begging that is) she told me she was from Trunyan, the Bali Aga village on the side of Lake Batur. Wherever she was from she didn't have much money, that was no act. After finishing my corn I gave her 1,000rp to be getting on with. I hope it helped her though the day. Across the main road they sell jewelry and ceremonial supplies. The whole thing is a little Balinese lifestyle bubble, you've got the offerings, the sarongs, salak (snake fruit), plus the fruit and veg market. The road heading back to towards Denpasar passes the town of Celuk, which specializes in silver jewelry. You can't miss this place because about a mile there is nothing but silver jewelry shops. I kept going and was home in Seminyak in about an hour.