Riding to Lake Bratan Bali

This Sunday I was thinking I might go for a ride with Karisma but she couldn’t make it, so after hitting Global Xtreme internet caf� in Kerobokan I gased up my bike at the station on the intersection at Jalan Raya Kerobokan and Jalan Petitenget and went for a ride in the mountains.

My destination was the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple on the shores of lake Bratan. I’ve been here 10 years ago with a friend and ridden past this time out in Bali but never stopped and checked it out again..

The route was simple: Start from Seminyak, ride up to Sempidi just north of Denpasar and continue on to Kapal where shortly after is the turnoff for Bedugal in the highlands. In Bali there are signposts here and there, but its not like in western countries in that here the map will point straight through a town and in reality you might have to navigate a local street system with a few choices unmarked. Denpasar is by far the worst place for this which is why I try to go around it. Today just north of Denpasar I was ridding along the main road north and the traffic came to a cross street, without warning my lane had become another lane in the opposite direction! I quickly pulled over, did a U-turn and rode around this new loop and rejoined the original road. As I was turning around I saw another rider zoom past blissfully unaware that he too was going head-on into traffic. There’s one of these heading south through Denpasar too.

The day was good weather but partially cloudy which is okay for me. I brought along my jacket in case of rain and wore my gloves and pollution mask.

This road north I was taking roughly parallels the one that goes north to Ubud and after about an hour and a half I stopped for some �makan’. The place was called Warung Nyoman in a town called Luwus. Their specially was betutu ( roast ) and I had a chunk of something that resembled chicken together with nasi ( rice ) and greens. My lunch was 7,000rp and was quite filling. The chicken was so tender I was using a spoon to eat cut it.

About 6 miles up the road I came to the Baturiti vegetable market and stopped to snap the goings on. Farmers were bringing a whole assortment of garden goods and setting them out. I also saw a small row of ladies selling tofu, tempeh and fish, they had their area and people knew where to get it.

Behind this market were shops selling drinks and the usual assortment of cookies etc. and further back in the alley behind a low row of clothes vendors. I reckon if you live in this part of the highlands the market must be quite a highlight. The market at Baturiti backs onto the slope of a hill and you can get an idea of where some of the goods came from.

Another 2 miles in Bedugal and there was another street side market and I stopped for one the �corn on the cobs’ that these ladies were offering. Its amazing that these things stay at boiling point after walking around with them for a while. I gobbled mine down after it had cooled slightly and threw the remains on the floor like everyone else.

Swinging down by the side of Lake Bratan I saw the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple in the distance and noticed plenty of locals were out enjoying the afternoon. Vendors of course were set up selling food and drinks galore. I bought a coffee from this lady, it was a packet variety for 2,000rp but declined this lady’s strawberries.

The weather is noticeable cooler in the highlands and always seems to cloud over. On a bike you can get cold quickly so bring a jacket.

Lake Bratan is a tranquil setting with the famous temple right although some operators offer water sports. Mostly boat rides and para -sailing.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan was built in 1633 by the raja of Mengwi (to the south ) and dedicated it to Dewi Danu, the source of water. This is very important for Bali as many streams are fed by this large body of water all year.

The temple itself sits in well manicured gardens and attracts local and foreign visitors. Entrance is 3,300rp.

The temples grounds have an assortment of structures (meru ) and the one that gets all the attention is the one that sticks out into the water with its 11 roofs ( more roofs, more important).

You’ll see postcards with the famous shots of the taller meru, which is dedicated to Dewi Danu and Wisnu next to the smaller one that is dedicated to Siwa.

A group of Indonesian tourists were having a good old time holding a selection of snakes including this python. There was also a lovely iguana chilling out in the patchy sunshine.

Heading back in the direction I had come I stopped after 20 minutes to admire the view and this fruit seller approached m with a small offering. Sorry I said but I’m only one guy and I don’t want a big bunch.

Nearing the town of Baturiti I turned right off the main road and headed down windy country lanes towards Apuan. Looking at the map there are many ways I could get home and I wanted to cruise down a country lane for a while. I saw immediately that people noticed me and returned my �hello’s. Back from the main road its farming and the traditional life. Once in a while I stopped to photo a paddy field or 2. I reckon with a dirt -bike I could have a great time exploring back here.

I carried on and met up with the highway again several miles down. I stopped in this shop for a reviving �teh bottle’ before the last leg home and Komang was very excited to have a foreigner in her shop.

I joined the late Sunday afternoon traffic heading back to Denpasar and Kuta and tried to pay attention as always to the unexpected that can jump out from anywhere. I noticed many families often with mum, dad and a couple of kids passing me and zooming in gaps between cars and other bikes. �You guys go for it, I’ll get home 5 minutes later.’

Bypassing Denpasar and swing through Kerobokan I saw a lovely sunset again but my best vantage point was lost as traffic was just to heavy for me to pull over and then buildings began to obscure the view.

This was day trip to the highlands that was very easy to do and the cool stuff I found very accessible. I left my house at 12pm and was back by 7pm.