The recent visit to the Eco Lodge at Sarinbuana inspired me to get back on my bike and explore a little more in that area.
Around midday I rode up to Tabanan to the west of where I’m living via a route that took me close to Tanah Lot. The road that goes to Tabanan has heavy traffic and I try to limit the amount of time I spend on it by taking the ‘country route’. Today was no different concerning the traffic with trucks and buses belching diesel fumes. My strategy is to position myself behind a pack of cars so I at least have 50-100 meters between me and the smokestack in front.
I know there are quite a few turnoffs from the main road heading to various points in the mountains and the Sarinbuana turnoff, a few miles after Tabanan does a circuit which pops out several kilometers further down the road. I took this road which I have never been on before and enjoyed the relaxing cruise up hill on sometimes pot holed roads. Its funny when you get away from Kuta and Denpasar a lot of locals don’t use helmets when riding motorbikes. In a way I can understand it as they are doing short trips which are often spurs of the moment. The flip side to that that they like to fly along these ‘empty’ roads and all it takes is a stray dog to wander in front and you’re going for a spin.
Here in Bali one realizes that most of the island is developed for agriculture not tourism and I love exploring the quieter more traditional places. Heading towards Wanagiri which must be a few hundreds meters in altitude I passed a temple with 7 teired meru. This is obviously a very important place for all villagers in the area.
Stopping at a village shop I bought a Bali kopi ( black, no sugar) and a small Top chocolate wafer which together cost 2,000rp. This local sat next to me and spoke English. He has worked on cruise ships and been to Europe. We talked about village life and what it was like these days. He told me that quite a few younger people work down in Kuta and that some have gone overseas. His brother is married to a Japanese lady and they live in Denpasar. I asked him if most of the people marry other locals and he said yes. That’s predictable I guess. I asked if it would be okay for a Balinese man to marry a lady from Java and bring her to the village. He said that it would take 5-10 years for her to properly learn to adapt to Balinese ways and learn the traditions. I love how these people have got their world figured out. There’s no ‘maybe she could just stay Muslim and they could do it halfway’. No. Up here its Balinese or nothing. If I married a Balinese lady she would live in my house and if that was in another part of Bali than where she is from that would be cool with everyone. I wonder how it would be if I said ‘honey we’re moving to the kampung and raising some cattle’. Would the locals start expecting me to fulfill religious duties? ( I’d be Hindu by that time after getting married).
Fascinating stuff and after discussing marriage with some westerners I wonder which scene works the best.
Mechanization has reached certain parts of Bali in the farming industry but up here its still water buffalo and plough. I passed fields of ripe rice and other sawah of rice still ripening. Farming is such a trip to a city boy like me. I’ve worked on farms in Australia and Germany but wonder how I could handle having to get up everyday and just slog at it. These people seem blissfully resigned to their situation.
On the road I did pass a few locals on motorbikes and a couple of pickups and SUV’S coming the other way. The condition of the road is okay for motorbikes although on the downhill section from Sarinbuana you have to crawl for a few hundred meters in second gear. For a visitor to Bali this area is quite accessible. Your Kijang will make it round here no worries.
Down from Sarinbuana a couple of kilometers away from the main road I stopped for some food. This lady fixed me up with nasi putih (white rice, tofu, soya beans, green beans, chilis and pork. The whole thing had a good dose of dark sauce in the bottom and with a the bottle cost 5,000rp ( US$0. 55). It was tasty and I gobbled the lot. Locals gathered to introduce themselves and it’s the local Bali scene once again. Nice people hanging out. They all want to know where you’re from, are you married, where you live etc. The lady gave me an orange for the road.
The ride back to Seminyak from there too about 1 hour 20 minutes.
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Here in Kuta I just stopped into a convenience store for a Band Aid. The female staff were all watching a talent show. “Indonesian Idol?” I asked. “No Indonesian model.” they replied. Oh God there’s no end to these shows.
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G’Day Nick,
Good to read that a Kijang will get to these areas. Rock n’ Roll!. Well, it’s gonna be a Kijang or a Katana.
Here in Indonesia people tend to cut to the chase fat and tell you what they think ( you’re too fat, you’re already old, you not handsome etc.) . Indonesian model had a panel of judges and each had a chance to critic each contestant. It funny what this suave older guy in a suit saying “Tina you just haven’t got it,” “Susi you’ve got no style, its not working.” “Putu you’re sweet but there’s no personality.” Just bagging them.
The route around to the Eco Lodge isn’t fancy but is drivable.
Ain’t that the truth….. You gotta love it, I returned to Bali with Maddy only 9 weeks old & was told by many friends, Wow you really fat now from having a baby!
Only in Indonesia!?
Indonesian Model sounds like it’s worth a watch, I wouldn’t imagine they’d be too many duffers in that one.