The prohibitive prices and aggressive atmosphere associated with hiking Mt. Batur made me decide to look for another cool hike. I found one on the north end of the crater rim. Right at the end of the road in Pura Ulun Danau Batur. After parking and snapping a couple of photos of the lovely temple, I walked around the back to hike the trail leading to the crater rim, which I believed to take 30 minutes. As I started heading towards the trails I heard shouts behind me. "Excuse sir you must wait!!!" "I look after this temple and you must pay." Said a stocky guy aged about 25. He went on that its not possible to go up the hill without him and I turned and started walking. Following me he erupted "You come back! Fuck you, you come here now mister, or I make big problem for you, I make big problem for you mister. You don't mess around with us!!!" The guy was going nuts, not just shouting loudly, but screaming like a lunatic. I carried on and reached the top where I sat and drank a teh bottle from a shack. The people were super nice and I chatted with other locals who passed by. The cool thing about this area is that in certain places you can look into the volcano on one side and look outside the volcano and see the north coast of Bali. Walking around for about 30 minutes I talked to locals who were farming.
Anticipating a welcoming party down below I thought there is no way I can recommend a hike inside the Batur crater to anyone, its pure intimidation. Imagine someone reading Baliblog, coming here and getting verbally and physically assaulted, all for going on a hike.
Saying goodbye to the friendly people at the little shack at the top of the trail, I got ready for my hike down. On the way I passed all kinds of nice people, kids, farmers, women and babies. They usually stopped to say hello. I gave my large water bottle to one party of 8 who were sweating away and they were grateful.
I know how the Mountain Mafia gets away with their antics. Strength in numbers. My attitude when reaching the bottom was I must not preempt any physical stuff or I'll get walloped by a whole group of people. Still I must stride through with confidence and be firm, I was not going to hand over money.
At the bottom a few kids were perched on a big boulder looking at me. Rounding the temple into the parking lot I saw my bike was still there and a dozen guys were sitting close by. One made a comment that I was the guy. They didn't seem aggressive so I went over and said, "You guys guides?" "Yes." they said. There was 1 older banjar guy there and I said to him, "Look Ba Pak, you've got to tell these guys that westerners won't come here any more if you push too hard, mengerti (understand?)." Then I said, "Okay sell a ticket to people who want a guide, but this tough stuff, following people around and threatening them is tidak bagus." He nodded then translated it to the sitting group, who also nodded.
So I got to ride away without further trouble. Still my idea of a hike is being in nature, enjoying the outdoors and leaving the stresses of the city behind. Having a vigilante group in the neighborhood isn't my cup of tea.
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{ 7 comments }
G’day Nick,
Well done!. Let’s hope you have paved the way for other visitors to the area not to be hassled by the tough guys. Lke your style mate!.
Nice write-up and damn interesting. I was surprised your bike was still there though!.
This ‘thug’ mentality is so common throughout Bali and good on you Nick for standing up to him. Its been like that for years there since Suharto left allowing people throughout the Archipelago to believe that democracy means ‘mob rule’. Unfortunately in Bali this is particularly prevalent and as its left undisturbed by the Police etc. will continue to flourish.
Barrie,
I expalined to the older guy that guides like LP already warn people about this and its not to the guides advantage to harras people. I hope enough of that kind of message gets back to them.
DaWiz, We had a situation in Kuta a couple of months ago where a mob attacked Fuel bar on Jl. Legian in the evening. When the police arrived they got attacked. Police cheif Made Pastika was really pissed and said ‘put them all in jail’.
The mob mentallity is all across Asia and its usually okay if you don’t cross swords with them. The Mountian Mafia in Batur has set up a system where they control a natural attraction and that’s the problem.
I understand locals have to make a living, but they are killing the goose that laid the golden egg. Okay offer guide services for 300,000 or 500,000rp for a group, but if someone wants to go alone don’t beat them up.
Nothing new. These thugs are at work many places in Bali with the connivance of the authorities. Here’s a letter to the the editor in the Jakarta Post from September, 2000.
Gang in Besakih
Saturday, September 16, 2000
I wish to relate a very disturbing experience I had when visiting the Besakih temple complex in Bali on Sept. 10, 2000.
On reaching the entrance to the temple complex, the tour group with whichI was traveling was confronted by a group of young men. They informed us that we could only enter the complex if accompanied by one of them as a “guide”, for which “service” we would have to pay.
When we indicated that we had no intention of paying them and tried to enter the complex, members of the tour group were obstructed from entering,threatened and subjected to insults. Having finally succeeded in entering, individual members of the group followed and harassed to the point where wefeared a beating. Females were singled out for particular abuse.
All foreign tourists entering the site were subjected to the same treatment — most appeared to consider it safer to pay up. On leaving the area, we complained to the site administrators, who offered an embarrassed apology. However, a travel operator in the area indicated that this behavior is well known to the authorities, being the subject of constant complaints.
I conclude the following from my experience: 1. Access by non-Balinese toBali’s most important sacred place is effectively in the hands of an unscrupulous gang, who openly intimidate and threaten visitors. 2. The Balinese authorities, civil and religious, are well aware of this but have taken no steps to expel the thugs. 3. If resolute steps are not taken against the gang, it is only a matter of time before a visitor is seriouslyassaulted in Besakih.
I call on the Balinese authorities to act without delay against the perpetrators, whose presence desecrates the sanctity of Besakih and the good name of Bali.
NOEL RUBOTHAM
Dublin, Ireland
Oh that story is frightening–thankfully i am not a nature trek person!We will get a nice bemo driver to take us to look at Kintimani–from a distance.jeez it reminds me of my formative years in Northern ireland when accidentally venturing into a neighbourhood were the inhabitants were of opposition religion lol.
Cheers laurs
These type of people are not tough guys, they know they have unlimited back up and can treat people how they like.
They will feel it in the pocket when the word gets around and people stop going.
I ve read some of your insightful pieces on hiking or visiting Batur/ Kintamani and it all seems pretty bleak. Look, the last thing we all want is to get into a ruckus when we re on holiday, and we dont want to get scammed as well.
I ll be down in Bali in dec and with 10 of us, we are afraid of being harassed when we re sight seeing out of town.. or specifically in Batur/ Kintamani. What would you suggest we do?
Btw, was hoping you could help me figure this out. How long is the van ride from
a) Kuta to Ubud
b) Kuta to Batur/ Kintamani (i m confused; they are the same right?)
c) Ubud to Batur/ Kintamani
Hope you guys could help whats obviously a rank amatuer… Thanks in advance
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