This article was submiited by Ann Wallace
annewallace@iprimus.com.au
Our account of Pantai Kecil
Part 14 27/3/04 – Snorkelling & a beautiful beach at Padang Bai
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Woke up at 7.30 am, (a sleep in for us in Bali), had an egg sandwich for breakfast – the best value as it is a toasted sandwich with egg, tomato and cheese, a freshly blended fruit juice (I felt like I was having a big vitamin pill every morning in Bali) and bali kopi. It was our last day in Padang Bai before heading back to Kuta.
We met Lolo at 9am (you’ll find him at the Puri Rai Restaurant next door to the hotel of the same name). He had organized a 2-hour snorkeling trip with his dad for us (170,000 rp. for 3) and yes, a ladder was presented for my inspection and approval (I’d wised up – JBR 4). This was an essential item for snorkeling from a prahu I had since decided. Snorkeling gear was included in the price but we only had to borrow flippers as we’d taken our own snorkels and goggles with us.
We made our way out of the main harbour, around the buoy marking the reef, and to Amuk Bay in the east. Amuk Bay is a fairly large bay and there was one other boat there with divers and snorklers. Blow up the swim ring and off we go, not before managing to drop one of my flippers in water about 4 metres deep – Sam kindly dove down and got it after a few goes – what a good kid!
The coral and colourful fish was the best we had seen so far in Bali, huge plates of coral and very lively fish, especially when you fed them biscuits – I’d wait until Sam was close by and crumble a biscuit and fish would swarm all over him, much to his alarm – he had visions of a shark or something coming along for a feed, attracted by the frenetic activity.
All too soon it was time to get back in the prahu and passing by the Blue Lagoon it looked lovely and calm, unlike the choppy conditions 2 days previously (JBR 12). We would have gone back there but we had another beach to explore called Pantai Kecil/Biastugal (page 295 Rough Guide to Bali & Lombok).
Using the instructions in my book we walked west past the ferry car park, and then up a little road that goes up a hill. As a landmark, at the corner of this road is the police station. After walking up this road not too far, maybe 20-30 metres, there is a homestay called the Megibung Warung and Homestay. At the back wall of this place is the track to turn at, so you are turning left off the road, it’s not signposted as far as I could see. Other than having to walk past a bit of a rubbish dump, it is a pleasant 10 minute walk up along a track, sometimes it splits a bit, and it is a bit craggy with rocks and stuff, so watch your step, then the path meanders down to the most beautiful white sand beach with the sea the most brilliant aqua colour I have seen in Bali. I must say that it was the most beautiful beach we had come across so far in Bali.
There are about 6 small warung that serve quite a range of food and drinks, clothes, sarongs and of course a few beach sellers peddling wooden boxes and silver rings. I bought my dolphin ring there and now whenever I look at it, it reminds me of Pantai Kecil beach.
We enjoyed some delicious banana pancakes and satays for lunch, as well as a few Bintangs and cokes; the bill for food and cokes came to 32,000 rp. (A$5.08) for the three of us. As there were some good waves Sam hired a bodyboard and enjoyed mucking around in the surf – make sure you wear an old tee shirt if you hire a board, some of the boards are a bit old and rough and can wreck a good tee shirt (as Sam discovered with his tank top later). It was a lovely spot to sit for a few hours and watch the surf. If I’d taken my camera I would have been tempted to take some photos but luckily I didn’t as there was quite a bit of sea spray coming up from the waves.
Reluctantly and wishing we had discovered this beautiful spot earlier we made our way back to Padang Bai, buying film on the way back – note, the film here is expensive 40,000 rp for Kodak 400, 36 exposures, so buy up on film before you get here. Graeme and I meandered through the village and discovered a boat builder and noted that the prahus seem to be carved from one long piece of wood. Sam bought an ice-cream (5,000 rp), a Bazooka, a bit like a choc wedge but with darker chocolate coating, yum! Later on Sam, being the eternally hungry teenager, bought some take away rice from one of the beach warungs – it was all wrapped up in a little brown paper package (1,500 rp).
Later on the boys had tea at Made’s Café – I think they had made a deal with the owner to have dinner there and watch the Matrix Reloaded. Not being my type of movie I headed off to check out a restaurant called the Omang Omang Café, just past the graveyard, and had a decadent dessert, a piece of their delicious chocolate cake and ice-cream along with a tequila sunrise (no wonder I felt a bit sick afterwards). They have Blues music on Monday nights and jam sessions on Wednesdays and Fridays, so that’s a cool place to check out in Padang Bai.
We’d been told about a drama performance at the site of the early morning market to be put on by villagers from Bangli; I think the performance was connected to the celebration of the temple odalan, but as it didn’t start till 11 pm and apparently it was an epic that went until 3 am we decided that after our very full day we wouldn’t be able to do it justice, even though it was a Saturday night!
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G’Day Anne,
Another colourful and informative account. Thanks. It certainly is amazing what you discover when you walk around a place, down the back alleys and side streets.
That film was expensive!. I too scared to ask what B&W film would cost!.
You should have checked out the graveyard. I just love walking around them even though it freaks the shit out of Candika!.