Restaurants and politics in Seminyak Bali

Last night I went by myself for dinner to Rumours restaurant on Jl. Oberoi in Seminyak.

I’ve mentioned this place before as being a unique combination of decent service, fun atmosphere, good food and low prices. I ordered beef stroganoff which came with mashed potatoes and vegetables for 20,000rp. The meat was tender and the food was tasty…how do they do it? I also ordered a glass of very decent Australian Cabernet Savignon for 27,000rp.

A friend of mine Ebong who works for Magic Wave magazine called and wanted to talk. We agreed to meet in Santa Fe around 9pm while it was still quiet. Ebong came and we started talking about restaurants. “I remember when Santa Fe started in 1991.” said Ebong, “It was just a warung with a big indian sign.” When I mentioned Rumours and the unbelievable value he said “You know the owner of Rumours is the same guy who owns the Circle K’s (60 of them).” “He also owns Toscana (high end Italian restaurant on Jl. Oberoi). This was news to me, Toscana is the place where ‘no expense can be spared’ and a starter can cost 150,000rp, why would the same owner put bargain basement Rumours down the street? “He did it to squeeze out Trattoria.” said Ebong. Now I undestand. Trattoria, another Italian restaurant opened right next to Toscana. Trattoria is usually full, Toscana usually empty. The owner wants to bury Trattoria by selling the food at almost cost. Don’t believe me? Rumours sells beer for the same price as Circle K! Another restaurant manager told me that it costs him 25,000rp to buy the raw Australian steak, Rumours are selling it cooked with mashed potatoes and vegetables for 25,000rp.

My prediction is that Trattoria will be around for a while and Rumours prices will have to go up. They serve decent food, decent wine, have a foreign chef and head waitstaff, plus the PR people from Liquid working there. All that costs money. If you are living in Bali or visiting make the most of Rumours and its prices because they are not going to be that way forever.

Interestingly I sms’d a friend of mine who runs a restaurant guide and told him about Rumours. He sms’d back and said he knew about it but didn’t consider anywhere with a pool table and loud music as ’serious dining.’

Another piece of info that Ebong relayed to me which I completely missed was that last Friday and Saturday night the bars on Jl. Dhyana Pura in Seminyak were all closed because the banjar (neighborhood ) decreed it. Jl. Dhyana Pura has seen a mushrooming of bars and locals complain about the late night noise levels. Here in Bali if you go against the banjar you are asking for trouble and they wanted to make a statement that they can close the street at any time. As visitors to Bali will know the Pecalang or banjar traffic police can re route traffic and closed main streets when they feel like it for religious events.

My house is half a block from Dhyana Pura and I don’t hear any noise at night. i do here noise from Amnesia, a nightclub on the beach. The most famous club in Seminyak, Double Six is currently closed for renovations and things are coing along well. I was there the other day and the old place has been completely gutted, the new club will be state of the art and on the level with a London or New York, complete with AC.

Its another great day here in Bali!