Bali has 8 districts (kabupaten) and 1 municipality, Denpasar. I have lived in Bali for almost 3 years and my knowledge of Denpasar and desire to go there is equally small.
My Rough Guide says "Despite roaring motorbikes and round-the-clock traffic congestion, Bali's capital Denpasar (meaning 'next to the market') remains a pleasant city at heart, centered on a grassy square and dominated by family compounds grouped into traditional banjar districts, with just a few major shopping streets crisscrossing the center. Bountiful flower gardens are visible over low walls surrounding larger houses, and in the residential quarters even the paving stones are carved with floral motifs. Street life is nowhere near a hectic as in Kuta, and tourists get little hassle here, not least because Denpasar makes few attempts to woo them. It's not a hedonistic city, with no nightlife, no real bars and no single outstanding restaurant or street side cafe; few tourists spend much time here."
I totally agree with that. Most of the street side food places are on Jl. Tueku Umar but I was unimpressed the couple of times I went. You can get better food on Poppies I. Also it's hard to find a beer, cold that is. After Jevon's birth I desperately searched for a beer and had to settle for Coke. You might check out the Pasar Badung market for a real Balinese scene.
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