Canggu: Rice fields, the ocean and villas
Canggu is a village located NW of Seminyak on the coast. Five years ago its was just rice terrace and beach, now you can add villas to that description. For expats Canggu is attractive because it feels like it is outside of the city, but is still close enough to the Kuta area for someone who has to work downtown. For tourists and surfers Canggu can make a pleasant change from Kuta. It takes about 35 minutes to get to Canggu from Kuta if the traffic is not too bad by heading up the Sunset Rd to Kerobokan, then turning left on Jl. Canggu after Café Mimi. Follow the signs for Tanah Lot and the turn off for Canggu is before that . I turned left off of the main road at a sign for Pantai Berewa. If you keep following this you will come straight into Banjar Canggu, the small village of Canggu. The surrounding area is called Canggu too although locals know the more proper names.
When I visited the surf was very nice and the surfers were enjoying the 3-foot waves. The dry season (March-October) is the best time to surf Canggu, although for swimmers you are best to avoid it as the currents are very strong. The area is popular with Japanese surfers from Kuta, who like the slightly bigger surf and sandy bottom. I watched a couple of local guys just ripping the waves. I think the secret at Canggu is to be a small guy on a small board and get up as soon as possible. The other guys were taking their time getting to their feet and were ending up losing all the power after their first bottom turn. Finally getting wiped out by the fast closing wave. The shredders were getting up very quick and staying high on the wave just dipping up and down and riding the power all the way to the end.
Canggu has a long sandy beach that goes on for miles. You can actually be left alone if you want although there are beach vendors at some of the main parking areas. The sand at Canggu is not really white but rather a sandy brown. I saw some debris on the beach but generally it looked okay (this is early May). As the dry season progresses the water will get cleaner due to less water coming down the rivers. You will find beach side warungs in several locations in Canggu, but the scene is very relaxed. At Pantai Brawa (Berewa) I stopped at one warung and drank a Fresh Tea (fruity iced tea). They had a very basic bathroom which I took advantage of. One funny thing was the price list on the door; Air kacil (small water, or urinate)1,000rp. Air besar (big water, or defecate) 2,000rp. Mandi (shower) 3,000rp, foot wash 1,000rp. I joked with the ladies who were manning the es campur (mixed ice stall) about where I come from and what my name was. I also had them laughing when I said that after drinking 1 tea and giving it back (air kacil) we were even. Roads are heavily rutted out here and locals do not wear helmets when riding a motorbike. I often see a 12 year old kid flying along on a motorbike or a 14 year old giving his 6 year old brother a ride. If you are sightseeing be sure to pull over as people tend to zoom up you out of nowhere.
On my visit I observed farmers taking care of the harvest and saw other fields that are still flooded. This land is very fertile and produces huge quantities of food. I like the fact that in many places the rice terraces come all the way down to the beach, the water trickling its last 20 meters from the mountains back to the ocean. Canggu has a few upmarket hotels that include the Chinese influenced Tugu, Bolare Beach Hotel, Legong Keraton Beach Cottages and Dewata Beach. Many short-term visitors to Canggu rent a villa. Certain sections of Canggu including Umalas on the way back to Seminyak are going construction crazy. The newest Café Moka in Umalas used to have space on 3 sides with a rice field view. Now it is on the end of a row of crappy shops and the rice field view is getting eaten up with every month that passes. A year from now they will have a cement view like much of the rest of developed Bali.
By Nick | Permalink
Related Posts
- Canggu Bali: The fast developing new expat area
- Rice fields in Tabanan Bali
- Canggu: New expat’s landing pad
- Fields of rippened rice in Karangasem Bali
- Ulu, Canggu and Kuta Beach on June 1st 2004 in Bali
Subscribe
|
Print
|
Share               |
G’Day Nick,
Great detailed write-up of Canggu. The way you described the manners of surfing, you sounded like a professional!. Good one mate!.
The areas north of Seminyak just seem to be getting more and more populated, and it won’t be long and it will stretch all the way to Tanah Lot. Progress is inevitable, but some regulatory body has to step in and restrict the amount of housing.
On another point - I prefer the pop-up images like you used to have!. Good size pics give a better idea of what you are writing about.
My opinion only mate!