The Balinese Family Compound Structure

Living in Seminyak I run into many people from all over the world.

I also meet people from all over Bali who come to the south of the island in search of work. They are usually living in the Kuta area in low budget accommodation called ‘kost’ which is a small single room in a former family compound.

While this type of compound is far from traditional it has some things in common with the traditional layout found in villages around the island.

All villages in Bali are laid out according to direction, Balinese direction that is. When asking directions locals will often use the words ‘kaja’ and ‘kelod’. These words are significant to the layout of a family compound. Gunung Agung, the largest peak, is the most sacred place on the island and kaja means ‘facing the mountain’ while kelod means ‘facing the ocean’.

Since Gunung Agung has settlements all around it kaja and kelod are relative terms. For example in Seminyak kaja is NE and kelod is SW. Up in Lovina kaja is SE and kelod in north.

People don’t get too wrapped up in figuring out the exact compass reference and in the south of Bali ‘kaja’ means roughly north.

Since all village compounds lie on a kaja-kelod line the 2 other directions are called kangin and kauli, meaning ‘where the sun rises’ and ‘where the sun sets’. Logically this has a problem too if you consider a place that doesn’t have kaja and kelod exactly on a N-S axis, but never mind, the Balinese stick by this tradition.

The family compound comprises a rectangular perimeter wall and several important structures, each significant and carefully laid out.

The Balinese think that the family compound reflects the human body and the first step in building a new compound is consulting a Balinese calendar to choose a suitable day to buy the land and start work. A ceremonial brick is wrapped in a white cloth and holy water is sprinkled on it. These bricks are then buried in each of the buildings to bring good fortune.

The head of the household has to consult a master builder called a ‘undagi’ who will take a selection of body measurements. These measurements are quite complicated and are derived from ancient texts. They include measuring the distance from the tips of the middle fingers, from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger and the width of the fist with the thumb stretched out. Needless to say Shaquille O’Neal would get a big compound.

A unit called the ‘depa asti musti’ is calculated and that will determine the size of the compound. After building is complete a ceremony called ‘melaspas’ is performed to bring the building to life.

Carrying on with the body reference the kaja, or top end of the compound is considered most important and represents the head. It’s where the ‘bale daja’ or sleeping quarters for the head of the household is located. The family temple that is the main family shrine dedicated to the souls of ancestors is always located at the kaja-kangin corner�facing Gunung Agung and first to see the light of day.

In the center of the compound is an open area which represents the navel and to each side of this are 2 ‘bale’ structures, which are raised areas with an open air bamboo and alang-alang thatched roof. The ‘bale duah’ or guest pavillion is located parallel to the kuah wall and the ‘bale dangin’ or ceremonial pavilion is located parallel to the kangin wall. Both bales represent the arms of the body.

The 2 structures closest to the kelod side of the compound are the ‘paon’ or kitchen and the lumbung’ or rice storage barn. These represent the legs and feet.

Outside the kelod wall are the garbage dump and the pigpen, these represent the anus.

Traditionally if a man marries before leaving home he is married at his parent’s house and will move in with his wife. This means building often goes on adding new structures and its is the norm to have 3 generations living together in one compound.